Showing posts with label Lima. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lima. Show all posts

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Taxi and Huayno Peruano


Finally it was time to leave Lima and frankly I was a little sad. There is never enough time to see a whole city, however only a few days seemed like bad planning.

But alas we had to depart, so we hailed a cab and made our way to the airport, in order to catch our flight to Cusco. This taxi was the most high tech taxi we had seen in all of Lima. Whereas most cabs were old and shabby looking, this driver looked like he was trying out for MTV's Pimp My Taxi.

This innovative driver had a television screen with a connecting dvd player in his car. Don't overestimate however, it was nothing like the touchscreens now seen in NYC cabs, where you can play around in the back seat, although it did make for some interesting entertainment. The best part of the car was the telephone the driver pulled out from somewhere in the front seat. It wasn't a car phone no no, (that would be too obvious), it wasn't a cell phone (again obvious), but rather a land line telephone that he somehow got to work inside the cab. He explained it to us but I'm not one for technology chats.

He had DVDs for us to choose from, most of them music DVDs. He suggested we choose traditional Peruvian music, music he called huayno. Little did we know that this would be our first taste of the music we would soon be hearing all over. Huayno is very distinguishable and especially for those hearing it for the first time, it is most definitely an acquired taste. The vocals are extremely high pitched and accompanied by flute, harp, panpipe, guitar, charango, and mandolin. Below is a song by Stalim Manrique.


















Huayno Dancers
Photo by: Otra vez me hice Mujer

Huayno is very popular in Andean culture. You can hear it in the mountains of Peru, often transmitted by radio, since many of the people living there do not have televisions. The music may seem a little strange to travelers when they hear it, since the sound is very unique. After all the singing is high pitched and can seem a little off key, but the tradition has lasted for a very long time, since pre-Hispanic Peru. No doubt there is lots of emotion, often about love, love lost, unrequited love, you get the idea. One of the songs I heard in the cab was about a man whose lover drove him so crazy he resorted to alcohol. The lyrics were funny and although I don't remember them exactly they were something like "I love you so much that I must drink." I understand the sentiment but for me it usually involves Ben & Jerry's rather than Johnnie Walker.

In huayno, often times you will hear people in the background, children speaking, or people cheering the singer on.
"Que sigue bailando" Keep dancing.
"Ay mi corazoncito" Oh my heart.
I admit I don't listen to huayno much in the privacy of my own home, but take a look for yourself and experience the music from a very rich culture.

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Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Inka Lounge Hostel Lima

For my first night in Lima I stayed at Inka Lounge Hostel in Miraflores. The hostel arranged for someone to pick me up at the airport for $15, which is a very reasonable price for the 30 minute cab ride from the airport to Miraflores. In Lima it is customary to negotiate the price of the cab ride before you enter, since there are no meters in the cabs. Do not forget to handle that beforehand if you want to avoid headaches later on. My driver was holding up a sign with my name on it amongst what seemed like hundreds of people waiting in the crowd for their prospective customers. He was very friendly and chatty, especially with all his swine flu questions. Suddenly I was an authority on the matter because of my American passport (note to self - start using the Spanish one).


When we arrived, I was tired and frankly a bit delirious from the flight. I didn't have any soles to give the cab driver a tip, but later I felt less guilty when I found out that taxi drivers in Peru don't expect tips. Although my cab driver seemed a bit hesitant to say goodbye, so I'm assuming many Americans give tips anyhow. When I arrived there was a group of people sitting in the common area of the hostel watching a movie. If I wasn't so very much looking forward to the feeling of my face hitting something resembling a mattress I would have tried to meet some new people, but I decided to check in as quick as possible and make my way to my room. Clearly sleep trumps socializing when fighting the effects of a sleeping pill.

The guy at the front desk Edgar was extremely helpful, and if I do say so myself, rather good looking. Still the sleeping pill won over the urge to keep talking to a handsome stranger. When I got to my room it was clean and had two beds. Finally the moment I've been waiting for.

The Inka Lounge Hostel is located in Miraflores. As hostels are concerned it is pretty standard although I would recommend it to anyone. I stayed in the single room and it was quiet and comfortable and cheap, a perfect combination after a long flight.

The Inka Lounge Hostel Website
Rates
Shared Rooms $7 US
Single Room $12 US
Double Room $10.50 US

All rooms share bathrooms
All rooms are per person

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Friday, May 29, 2009

El Centro de Lima Photo Journal





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Thursday, May 21, 2009

Miraflores Photo Journal

Miraflores was one of my favorite neighborhoods in Lima, primarily because of the vibrant colors of the buildings. Part of my travel experience is wandering around streets and neighborhoods and Miraflores makes it easy to appreciate. The flâneur will feel at home walking the quiet residential streets as well as the busy squares and center.

Lima proved to be a great city to start off my South America tour. I felt comfortable walking around on my own (during the day) and with friends at night. Miraflores is a safe neighborhood in Lima, therefore you should be cautious and avoid other neighborhoods at night (and even during the day). At my hostel one of the employees highlighted on a map which area I should avoid. You can ask your hostel or hotel to do the same. Below are some pictures of the Miraflores neighborhood.






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Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Larcomar in Miraflores

Larcomar
One of the popular places to go out in Lima is Larcomar. Larcomar is a small mall in the Miraflores neighborhood. It is nice because it is right on the cliff overlooking the ocean. At night you can hardly see the water, but you can smell the salt in the air and feel the breeze that blows in from the ocean. It´s nice to step outside for a breath of fresh air, especially because some of the clubs allow smoking.
I was a bit surprised to see this restaurant in Lima. Apparently Hooters translates into Spanish.
Fountain at Larcomar.
Larcomar at night.


Mama Batata is one of the bar/clubs in Larcomar. The sign suggests the bar is open from 8pm until whenever you choose to leave, however don´t let it fool you. The bars in Lima close around 4am.
There were a bunch of baskets hanging from the ceiling. Don´t know why but it made for an interesting atmosphere. There were much more tourists here than other bars we had gone too, however there is also a local crowd.
Don´t believe the sign. The beer is not free!
For more information about the restaurants, clubs, and stores at Larcomar you can check out the Larcomar Website.

Bars and Discos
Aura
Food Court
BARTINI
Plaza Gourmet
Gótica
Deck Food Court
Mamá Batáta
Mezannine Plaza Gourmet
XCESS BAR
Sótano de la Plaza Gourmet Tda. 302


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Saturday, May 2, 2009

Love In Lima

El Parque Del Amor

El Parque del Amor (Love Park) is along the Malecon. Guidebooks lead you to believe that the colorful ceramic, design is very similar to Park Guell in Barcelona, and it is, but on a much smaller scale. Couples sit on the walls as if no one is watching them. It´s a little voyeuristic. My gringa sensibilities make me a little uncomfortable to show that emotion in front of a bunch of picture taking tourists, but these guys seem to ok with displaying their amor in public.On Valentine´s Day people go to the park and compete in a contest for the longest kiss. Not really sure what the winners get as a prize, but you can use your imagination.

There are quotes written into the walls of the murals.
Mi sangre esta alcanzando a las estrellas (My blood is reaching the stars) - Jose Maria Arguedas

Some othe quotes found in the park:
Te desvisto como quien pela una fruta
(I undress you like someone peels a piece of fruit)- Jorge Diaz Herrera

A ti como la luz del mundo a las ventanas
(To you like the light of the world in the windows)- Juan Gonzalo Rose

Somos un poco la sombra de lo que fuimos
(We are a bit like the shade of what we used to be)- Oscar Valdivia
In the center of the park is a statue of a couple fully embracing, seemingly pre-coital. It stirred up some contreversy since Peru is a fairly conservative country. The creator of the stautue is Peruvian artist Victor Delfin.Someone wrote this quote on the ledge of the wall along the Malecon.
(The views of a lighthouse are distant. Just like love, it seems far to never return).



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Strolling Along El Malecon

It was 8am on el dia del trabajo (day of work) and the streets were dead. El dia del trabajo is basically a Peruvian Labor Day. One particularity of Lima is the cloud of fog that creeps up from the shore, especially in the early morning.The Malecon de Miraflores is a park that runs along the Pacific Ocean. I was extremely excited to see the ocean, but as you can see from the picture above, the fog was so thick you couldn´t see anything. It was a strange feeling not being able to see what was right in front of you.

There were tons of people jogging and working out along the Malecon. Everyone was very friendly and stop to smile and say hello. A few people saw me fidgeting with a map and asked if I needed help.

The faro (lighthouse) is small. Not sure how ships were able to see the lighthouse with the constant fog.
The Malecon is on top of a cliff overlooking the beach.
If you look closely you can see some surfers swimming below.


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