I'm Moving!

After some careful consideration, and what seemed like endless hours of researching blog design and a bunch of other techie stuff that drives me crazy, I have decided to move to WordPress. I am currently in the process, which is why you may noticed the inconsistencies between my regular domain and my blogspot domain.

My domain is the same http://www.gringaespanola.com/.
My new feed is http://www.gringaespanola.com/feed/.

Please join me at my new site location!
In about a week or so I will be completely moved to Wordpress, so I hope to see you all there.
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Travel Writing - Real or Fiction

The Guardian travel blog most recently published a post about travel writing and whether or not this somewhat self-indulgent art form is in fact truth or fiction. They argue that the line between truth and fiction is often blurred because writers may 'introduce "colour", altering the sequence of events to make a book or article "flow."

Of course these types of exaggerations don't have a place in guide books or instructional articles because they require accurate research on accommodation, budget, and description of sites; however, when it comes to personal accounts of travel, does "colour" interfere with the purpose of the story. Writers such as Tim Cahill and Bill Bryson have long inspired me to travel and experience Road Fever. Their perspective and slightly off humor personal accounts are clearly from their perspective. There is no confusion about that.

When I think of the times that I may 'colour' a story on some of my recent travels, they are hardly ever a declaration of a falsehood. This year while traveling on a trail towards Machu Picchu, I experienced a horrible bout of food poisoning and altitude sickness. At the time I was in the middle of the mountains with no easy route back to a doctor or even a moving vehicle. Was I close to death? Hell no. But did I feel like it? I guess you could say that (a mixture of puking, dizziness, and difficulty breathing can certainly change a person's perspective). When a tour guide suggests to take some oxygen to help with breathing, rationality tends to go out the window. Let's just say that the colour added to this story was in fact, an accurate, but emotionally exaggerated depiction of the truth.
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Youth Magnet Cities Per The Wall Street Journal

The Wall Street Journal has declared the top cities for the Young and Restless. They dutifully noted that less people are moving around, no doubt because of the uncertain economy, but they predict that when things pick up, so will those young and restless souls looking for a new city to call home. These cities have a few similarities, for one they are big urban cities, with plenty of financial opportunities. People aren't flocking to smaller, less pragmatic towns because of financial constraints, although Portland made the list, so the allure of the bohemian isn't completely lost.

Washington DC - 1st Place (tie)














New job prospects in government, and an extremely popular president, are very appealing to young urban professionals looking to make a name for themselves. "In the eyes of some people, Barack Obama is America's coolest boss." Although the chances of overhearing political jargon during happy hour in D.C. is as high as overhearing financial musings over lunch in New York City, you need not work in politics in order to enjoy living in this town. While politics may rule, there are plenty of other factors that attract the upwardly mobile masses. In neighborhoods such as Adam's Morgan you will find bookstores, bars, farmer's markets, restaurants, art galleries, and coffeehouses; a far cry from the expanse of Capitol Hill.

Seattle, WA - First Place (tie)














For someone like me, who has been dying to visit this west coast city, I concur with Seattle's inclusion on the list, mostly because of my own preconceptions. Seattle seems to be where the innovative (think Starbucks and Amazon) mix with their rugged, nature loving friends. Not to mention the beautiful terrain that lies just outside of the city. Of course there are a few disadvantages, although I won't over saturate you with my complaints of constant rain and never-ending humidity. Ok and I admit, I also really want to see those flying fish at the Pike Place Fish Market.
Image via: Phil Roman

New York City- Third Place














New York City is an obvious choice for many. The city attracts people from all over the world who have to live in this iconic city. It certainly lives up to the hype. Frankly it boggles my mind how so many young people, working on measly salaries (perhaps an entry-level media job or a waitress gig to pay for school) can afford to live in such an expensive city. I don't know how, but I do know why. Because they love it. It is that simple. You have to live in New York City to truly understand the charm and madness that collide in these yellow taxi filled streets. There are some who complain about the noise and the frenetic pace, the ones who have told me that, 'eh NYC just isn't for me.' This East coast girl tends to tune them out.

Portland, OR - Fourth Place














Portland is quirky and for lack of better terminology seems to be the 'trend' as of late. With good reason of course. There is a deeply rooted artistic scene in Portland that has been attracting artists and free spirits for quite some time. The unemployment rate (11.2%) doesn't seem to bother these folks. The appeal is that it may be the anti-big city. There isn't the frantic pace and the preconceived judgments about how much money you make or who you work for. It seems that Portland promotes a more laid back approach to city life, something that Pacific Northwest cities do so well.
Image via: egazelle

Austin, TX - Fifth Place















When people talk about Texas, Austin always gets a lot of praise. Austin has a slightly cooler climate than other cities in the state, as well as a youthful culture. If the neighborhood has good bars, trendy restaurants, galleries, and good coffee, give it some time and the young and hip will soon follow.
Image via: Kafka0622
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Graffiti Photo Journal

Graffiti has been around for quite some time, perhaps since the Ancient Greeks and Roman Empire (doesn't it seem like the Greeks and Romans invented and did just about everything). While some may view graffiti and other forms of art in public space as 'vandalism,' it is a valued form of expression for many others. When cities work in conjunction with artists, the art becomes more than a few tags on someone's wall.


















Walking around Montreal, in particular downtown or the Plateau, it is inevitable to pass many murals. The city of Montreal encourages, or at least allows, artists to display their talents outside of art galleries for all to see. Similar to the way the city handles other forms of artistic expression, such as Tam Tams, Montreal does not discriminate.





































I've heard people describe Montreal as a 'boho' city, and for lack of a better description, I've used 'boho' a few times myself. The modern appropriation of the word bohemian would have us believe that everyone walks around in open sandals, flowy, floral skirts, and with, how shall I say, a lax concern for personal hygiene. Loaded stereotypes aside, historically a bohemian is an artist, and adventurer who strive for their romanticized beliefs, and in this Francophone/ Anglophone city, that spirit lingers.

















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NY Times Writes About Asbury Park

Image via: Matthew Weinstein for NYTimes

Funny enough, the same day that I decided to post my Asbury Park photographs, the New York Times Travel Section publishes an article about the Eclectic Renaissance of Asbury Park. This goes to show that the travel powers that be concur, Asbury is back.


Asbury Park Casino
















In the casino, this map displays many of the changes that will be taking place on and near the boardwalk.




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Jewel of the Jersey Shore Asbury Park

Image via: Shorpy
Throughout the 90s and 2000, Asbury Park has seen better days. Once known as the jewel of the Jersey Shore, the famous beach town changed from a popular summer getaway to a forgotten, ghost town, on account of economic hard times, corruption, and the riots of 1970. Still the mystique of Asbury Park has never been forgotten, frozen in time, inspiring Bruce Springsteen to make his album Greetings From Asbury Park, and talk about psychic Madame Marie in 4th of July, Asbury Park (Sandy). Still many more artists keep coming back to play at venues such as the Stone Pony.

The past couple of decades, driving through Asbury Park has garnered a completely different image than the old picture of prosperity (ie the black and white photograph above of women in petticoats and men in full suits). You were more likely to pass buildings with shattered windows, garbage strewn on the street, and bars blocking doorway entrances, rather than the a busy boardwalk full of joggers, shoppers, and out of towners. Asbury Park was crime ridden, run down, and dirty, left to decay after the hard times.

Image via: Keith Meyers/The New York Times
Despite the hardships of the past, each coming year it seems that Asbury is gaining a breathe of fresh air. I visited Asbury this summer and from just two years ago the changes are drastic. You can see from my post of Greetings From Asbury Park that more people are returning to this one time vacation destination. The new restoration projects, as well as the new stores that will be opening on the boardwalk, have some people excited and others groaning. After all, if a bunch of overpriced cafes serving $6 cups of ice coffee start popping up, some worry that Asbury may loose some of its authenticity.

Unfortunately that is what happens when a place starts to become 'popular' once again. Suddenly the Starbucks of the world want to put up shop. As for me, I'm torn. The juxtaposition of such old favorites as the Stony Pony and the Wonder Bar, next to the new trendy cafes on the Asbury boardwalk makes for a more interesting, and I hate to say, convenient visit. More than anything, although Asbury may be a 'diamond in the rough,' a 'hidden gem,' an 'up and coming destination' (insert any other trite, travel writing cliche here), now the city is given the opportunity to be what it once was, hopefully without loosing its unusual Jersey Shore town charm.
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A Different Perspective of Asbury Park

My cousin Fernando, who inspired me to appreciate Asbury, took these pictures below. I love the way our differing posts show how a photographer's perspective affects the outcome of the photographs (not to mention the effects of a muggy day versus a bright sunny day). The same images take on a completely different feel, depending on who is behind the lens.








Images via: Fernando Vazquez

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Greetings From Asbury Park

My cousin forced me to see Asbury with different eyes. He loved Asbury Park, even at a time when I would roll my eyes at the suggestion of spending an afternoon there laying on the beach. Before talks of development and building restoration projects, he was a fan of this beach town because of its conflicted history, not despite of it. Another perk is that it is less crowded than other favorites along the coast, although that is quickly changing.

There is something intriguing about going to a place that has fallen off most people's radar. Off the beaten path, some people call it, when you decide to explore somewhere not in the travel guides. There are many perks to this philosophy, for one you avoid the crowds and you get enjoy an experience a place few others have.


The fireworks are hailing over Little Eden tonight
Forcing a light into all those stony faces left stranded on this warm July




Did you hear the cops finally busted Madame Marie for tellin' fortunes better than they do For me this boardwalk life is through baby
You ought to quit this scene too



This pier lights our carnival life forever
-Bruce Springsteen

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Move Over Busker

Well the rest of my life lay in front of me
I was pedaling down the road
When I saw nell gwynne and her oranges
And I'll have one of those
She said move over busker, don't bang your drum
Move over busker, your time will come
-Paul McCartney

After posting about street performers, I perused through my photo collection and picked out some more of my favorite busker photos.

In the southern Spanish city of Granada there is a rich amalgamation of three very different cultures, histories, and religions: Islam, Catholicism, and Judaism. Home to the Moorish palace La Alhambra, Granada has a flavor that sets it apart from the rest of Spain. The Mirador de San Nicolas (lookout point) faces the magnificent Alhambra, and I highly recommend to anyone visiting this small city to go here just before sunset. The lookout is located in the Albayzin, a neighborhood with small winding streets and white-washed houses with colorful gardens. Set upon a hill, the Albayzin is a perfect location to view the old palace.

At Mirador San Nicolas there are always people singing and playing guitar. The group we saw this particular day really epitomized every stereotype I was looking forward to: the raspy voices (most certainly due to years of heavy smoking), the incredible strumming of the Spanish guitar, the rhythmic clapping, and the melodic improvisation of flamenco singing. Those couple of songs, played to accompany the sunset, were enough to send a chill down my spine, and toy with the idea of quitting my day job in order to sit around these hills, smoke cigars, and learn to play flamenco guitar.

No one else could wear a mullet and a white turtleneck cutoff and still look as badass as this man right here.

One of my favorite things to do in Mexico, or in any place for that matter, is to roam around the local markets. They are full of life and delicious food. I also find that they are a great way to see the people of the city go about their daily routine. I took this picture in Tepotzlan, Mexico around the time of the Day of the Dead. You can see a bushel of marigolds in the foreground of the photograph. These neon orange flowers are prevalent around this time, when people use them to decorate altars and pay homage to those who have passed. Right after I took this shot, the guy in the bright yellow shirt chased me down for a small tip and some friendly flirtation.

Just outside of Vancouver, about an hour or so on bus, you will find Capilano Park, home to the 450 ft long and 240 ft high Capilano Suspension Bridge. When we finished crossing the bridge and exploring the park we noticed a 3 person band getting ready to play. They weren't buskers in the traditional sense, (look at the name tags) but rather park employees. Nonetheless people gave them tips after they sang some Elvis, Johnny Cash, and other crowd favorites.

Barrio La Boca in Buenos Aires is known for its brightly colored facades, its Italian immigrant population, and a slightly dodgy reputation. If you ignore the obvious tourist traps and souvenir shops, you can almost imagine the immigrants painting the houses bright colors, in order to give life to this rundown part of town. Nowadays it has become somewhat commercial, but you can still enjoy the tango performances at one of the many cafes.

Grauman's Chinese Theatre is exactly what you picture it to be, tacky, commercial, over the top, and just a bit uncomfortable. My discomfort is mostly due to an overzealous Elvis impersonator who got a little handsy. Nonetheless there is probably no other place you can see Jack Sparrow, Elvis, Zorro, Spiderman, Minnie Mouse, Jessica Rabbit, and even Chucky (you know the maniacal, homicidal plush toy that made you fearful that your toys would come to life in the middle of the night) all in the same place.

Olvera Street in Downtown Los Angeles provides quite the contrast to the massive structures that crowd around the business sector. The performers, street vendors, restaurants, and cafes serve as a taste of Mexican culture a small tribute to a community with such a large population in this city. It is small and unassuming, but I tend to love areas such as these. I really enjoyed the fact that I could get a peeled mango on a stick, a massive dulce de leche stuffed churro, and agua de jamaica at one of the nearby vendors. The headdress of the performer below was amazingly massive, and from what I can tell there are many performances such as this one taking place nearby.

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Buskers Playing in Montreal

Busker is a British term for street performer, so naturally an American like myself is not as likely to have heard it before, let alone use it in conversation. We use the term street performer, but busker sounds just a wee bit more interesting. Buskers can cover themselves in paint, make balloon animals, perform an instrument, sing at a metro station, juggle, eat fire, flip, dance, sketch you as a cartoon; all of this for a small tip.

In New York City I was used to hearing singers in the subway and watching hip hop dancers perform anywhere from Times Square to the fountain in Washington Square Park. Montreal has a different sort of, shall we say, busker scene. Juggling is very popular in Montreal (I have seen jugglers pretty frequently). Of course there is always a person who dresses up for picture happy tourists, like this guy below who I can only imagine is some sort of silver Aztec king.

Place Jacques-Cartier in Old Montreal always has buskers hanging around looking to keep their audience entertained. Bands like this one make strolling around the city much more entertaining, I believe from one of the many universities in Montreal, that made the weekend afternoon.

This busker is quite the regular. I have seen him perform his fire juggling routine many times; even a year after I left Montreal he was still at it, performing for huge crowds by the Old Port. There are lots of pictures of him on Flickr.

Image via: fabio costello
A lot of enthusiasts perform not for money, but merely for the pleasure of performance, such as during Tam Tams. Montreal is a very creative city, so it is natural that its inhabitants would use the public space to display their talents. Expect lots of street performers at many of Montreal's festivals.

Image via: Rishi Menon

Image via: icarusfire

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It's Like Riding a Bicycle...

"It's like riding a bicycle," or so they say about something you never forget how to do. Although I wobbled back and forth on the racing bike, a bit too tall for my 5'2 frame, the seller called me a natural. Of course he'd say that, hoping that a few gentle strokes to my ego would coax me into buying his old bike. I realized the saying is true, I didn't forget how to ride a bike, but they never said anything about riding it well. The test spin was a success, considering I didn't fall over, break the thing, or cause any bystanders bodily harm. Nonetheless I left the seller disappointed, realizing that the racing bike with its large thin wheels, was too much for me to handle.

I decided to go smaller, so much smaller that I risked the little kid, bike jabs from my friends. Even so I loved it. My girl's cruiser bike was perfect for a cycling friendly city like Montreal. After a couple self-affirmations and the support of an equally inexperienced friend, we were able to conquer the streets and avoid incoming traffic.

The incredible talents of Montreal cyclists.

• Texting while riding.
• Talking on their cell phone while riding.
  
• Listening to their ipods while riding (you get my drift). They can handle technology on a bike.
  
• Talking to one another while cycling side by side. Yeah it seems easy enough, but try it before you judge.
  
• Successfully balancing a large quantity of 'stuff' in a basket at the front or back of their bike.
• Successfully balancing another person on the front or back of their bike.
  
• Riding with no hands (in order to text, scratch their head, show off, etc.).
  
• Riding in the pouring rain. (I've done this too! It is actually a lot of fun).
  
• While I have not seen it, people tell me that Montrealers continue to ride their bikes well into wintertime and even during snowstorms.

Novice riders like ourselves slowly learn the tricks of the trade.

My old companion is now being ridden around Montreal by a girl from Argentina. May she treat it well.

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The French Don't Smile

The French don't smile.

Americans do!


I've been reminiscing a lot lately. Must have something to do with my up and coming birthday. Impending birthdays always seem to make me a little nostalgic. Perhaps I'm longing for my love affair with Montreal (when am I not?) and the carefree days of little responsibility, besides my worries on how to order my crème brûlée in French. Je vais prendre une crème brûlée s'il vous plaît.

In Montreal we had a group that we liked to call Le Bande de Boudoir, created after an eventful cinq a sept at Boudoir Cafe, and perhaps too much Quebecois beer. Since we were all learning English, French or Spanish, and we came from all over the world, it made for some interesting conversation and miscommunication. There were no reservations here, every stereotype on the table. Are all the French snotty and uptight? Of course not, but we sure as hell would harp on it, just as much as we'd emphasize how loud and obnoxious us Americans are. Is it true? Not really, but it makes for more interesting bar talk. It was the the 'if you can't beat 'em, join 'em' philosophy, and it seemed to work. After spending so much time trying to deter assumptions and stereotypes, there comes a point where you can only welcome them.

Possibly one of my favorite pictures of all time. Check out our friend 'the bartender' in the background. Somehow he made it into quite a bit of our pictures.

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Montreal Summer Festivals

In the summertime Montreal is alive and full of color. This year I was unfortunately unable to attend the festivals, which makes me very sad; fortunately one of my dear friends and talented photographer Jean-Baptiste Duthu, took these wonderful photos at the various festivals held this year. Now I can pretend I was at the festivals with him.


The International Jazz Festival of Montreal is one of the most popular festivals in Montreal, in fact it is one of the biggest jazz festivals in the world. Hundreds of artists perform and there are over 500 shows, some of which are completely free for the public.

Some of my favorite summer festivals include:

The International Jazz Festival of Montreal
Just For Laughs
Les FrancFolies de Montreal
Fashion and Design Festival
Montreal World Film Festival

It seems like Montreal is always celebrating something, not only in the summertime. For a full list of all the festivals in Montreal that take place all year round click here.


These performers give tribute to the British flag by donning the flag as *cough* undergarments.

The Just For Laughs Festival is probably one of the most fascinating festivals for people who like to stroll and people watch. Walking down St. Denis was one of the highlights of the festival. I admit I'm not a big fan of stand up comedy, although many Quebecois comics are much funnier than the comics I have seen in the past; however, the festival provides more than merely stand up comedy. The streets are lined with performers in costumes whose main purpose is to involve the crowd. If you are nearby you are fair game. It is not uncommon to have a close encounter with a man inside a massive inflatable ball that takes up half the street. Also beware of becoming victim to the Just For Laughs TV show. The parade that marks the close of the festivities is no doubt interesting, if not a little strange. The year I attended a huge mechanical figure of a person (the size of a small building) creepily marched down the avenue.

This picture is my favorite of Jean-Baptiste's photographs, undoubtedly taken during the Just For Laughs Festival. I love the expression on the performer's face!



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Au Pied de Cochon

In case you didn't have enough of my rich, messy, and gluttonous post about poutine, (who really ever has enough rich food) I bring you more devilish food from Montreal. I'm not going to lie and say that I wasn't extremely excited to go to Au Pied de Cochon, in fact I was giddy all day before we made our way, practically skipping, to a foie gras filled evening. Au Pied de Cochon means leg of pig, and in case you were wondering, pig leg is on the menu. I know that may not seem appealing some, but people all over the world have been cooking with pig feet for years and years. Those rich sauces and stews you love from that fancy French restaurant in your neighborhood most likely has used a pig foot or two for flavor, but don't think about it too much. The flavors are just too good.

When you come here think French cooking, the richness, the butter, the flavor; but we are not in France, so although Quebecers speak the same language as their counterparts overseas, they do things a little differently. For one, they use their famed maple syrup, which chef Martin Picard drizzles upon some of his popular dishes. My amateur palate would describe the food as French comfort, a meal that Montrealers are proud to admit will keep them warm in the winter.

The menu is a little intimidating including tongue, kidneys, ears, and other goodies that would leave most American children with their mouths shut. For an appetizer (entree in French) we chose Plogue à Champlain, a type of foie gras. The foie gras was seared perfectly and melted like a piece of butter in your mouth. As if the guilt hadn't set in from eating rich duck liver, the foie gras sits atop a slice of cheese, bacon, a pancake, and potatoes. The dish is then topped off with chopped apples, parsley and maple syrup. It reminds me a little of breakfast, lunch, dinner, and maybe dessert all wrapped up in one. It's delicious, addictive, and extremely filling.

Duck in a can was our main course. Stereotypically foodies tend to shy away from any food that comes out of a can. My experience with Spanish conservas, food preserved in a can, has taught me differently. They can be quite costly and delicious, therefore the duck in a can seemed like an interesting option.

The duck is cooked within the can after it is dropped in boiling water. This method can be compared to sous-vide where food is slow cooked in an airtight plastic bag, however our server explained that the duck in a can is cooked no longer than 7 minutes, to ensure the juiciness of the duck. He opened the can in front of us and the truly amazing part about the dish was its presentation after our server placed its contents over the toasted bread and potatoes. You will notice the well placed sprig, dangling from the top of the dish. The breast of duck is accompanied with a thin layer of duck fat, foie gras of course, butter-braised cabbage and a sauce that seems made for this dish and this dish only. It's a good thing all of this sits atop mashed potatoes and toasted bread because you will need something to sop up all the sauce when you are finished.

My interest in Au Pied de Cochon was no doubt influenced by Anthony Bourdain's trip to the restaurant when he visited Montreal. Chef Martin Picard told his server to keep giving food to Anthony and only 'when he dies stop.' I knew that Au Pied de Cochon would be an enjoyment of excess and I wasn't disappointed.
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Tam Tams and Medieval Sword Fights

Image via: lukelukeluke
It's a sunny Sunday morning in Montreal... what to do, what to do? You go to Tam Tams of course. Each Sunday musicians, artists, university students, hippies, tourists, families, anglophones, and francophones fill Jean Mance Park in Mont-Royal to take part in what could be called a huge, dance, party picnic. If you have a drum feel free to join in. Everyone is encouraged to dance. Tam Tams is about participation and celebration; everyone is welcome.

While many dance around the angel, many others bring blankets and food and enjoy a day of lounging around in the sun, while listening to the drum beats. If you don't have a drum you can buy one from the street vendors that are stationed along Avenue du Parc. There is an array of scarfs, shirts, wood-carved figurines, and much more merchandise you can't resist from buying even though it has no purpose, such as dream catchers, a jumping frog, or a finger trap.

Some say the origins of this tradition are unknown, although trusty Wikipedia states that Tam Tams started in the late 70s after a workshop on African drumming at a jazz bar. The city of Montreal did not organize this spontaneous gathering, however they have become involved because of its extreme popularity. They provide first aid and permits for streer vendors.

Pounding on a bunch of drums all day may seem tedious to an outsider, but participants and viewers are hooked. Tam Tams really captures the spirit of Montreal, a city that prides itself on its creativity, art, and expression.

Image via: Gregoire Lannoy (en vacance)
Tam Tams takes place in the summer months and will be finishing soon. The city of Montreal makes the schedule from May to September. Although the schedule doesn't keep away everyone. You will find hard core tam tam fans still drumming well into autumn.

Image via: Aschaf
Probably the most peculiar and oddly enjoyable show to watch during Tam Tams is the mock medieval battle. People come out dressed up in their best medieval garb and they fight with foam swords and shields. I admit I thought it was crazy at first but who hasn't wanted to pick up a foam sword and Brutus someone from behind? Ok maybe not everyone, but I really liked Medieval Times as a child.

Image via: Jean-Baptiste Duthu


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Hotel De La Montagne: Best View of Montreal

Most rooftop bars are impressive because they have the city as their backdrop. If they offer cocktails, a relaxed and chic atmosphere, people will be drawn to the establishment. While walking around downtown Montreal near the famous Crescent Street, my friend and I were looking for a new place to grab a beer or glass of wine. We passed by Hotel De La Montagne and the doorman suggested that we try their rooftop bar. We never heard of the place but otherwise obliged, since we didn't have any other plans for the evening.
La Terrasse Magnetique, quickly became one of my favorite places to go for cinq a sept. Cinq a sept, 5-7, is happy hour in Montreal. La Terrasse is the rooftop bar of Hotel De La Montagne, where drinks are fairly priced, the ambiance is relaxed, and there is a pool, although I've never seen anyone actually go inside it. The crowd is around mid twenties and up, which is a welcome change from the many bars and clubs near Crescent street that are sometimes packed with people taking advantage of 18 year old legal drinking age of Montreal.
You can see Crescent Street from the terrace.

Inside the lobby of the hotel there is another bar that will make you feel like you entered a 1950's cabaret in Paris, where women wear plumed hats and the men have slick mustaches plastered to their faces. La Cabaret caters to an older crowd, or the occasional business person and client, and it often has a pianist and the occasional live performance.
Another popular restaurant and club that provides beautiful views of Montreal is Altitude 737. It is a restaurant and bar that later opens as a nightclub. Word on the street is that the food is overpriced and underwhelming, a combination I'd rather avoid, so I opted not to pay the hefty price tag. Again the major appeal is the view, and like other sky high restaurants, you will pay for the ambiance. I did however go to the nightclub and again I wasn't too impressed with the club itself, but the view is beautiful at night. If you decide to go, be prepared to pay an entrance fee.
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Point G Macarons

While walking on Ave. Mont Royal, we stumbled across a small bakery called Point G. After a few minutes and some nudging from a friend of mine, I realized that Point G is in fact the term for G spot in French. Oh those clever Quebecers. Quite an interesting spin on marketing if you ask me. A couple blocks away, there is a restaurant called Au Chaud Lapin, which is a French expression for being well, hot and bothered. I sense a theme brewing on this street.


chaud lapin - someone consumed in sexual pleasures.

Sexual innuendo aside, Point G deserves a taste. It is located in the heart of the trendy Plateau section of Montreal, amongst many other bakeries; however what sets this one apart is their colorful macarons. It has been a year since this little macaron boutique opened in Montreal, which explains why I didn't know about it last year.

The French macaron trend has been gaining a lot of popularity, with tiny shops popping up in many big cities. This colorful macaron is different than the coconut macaroon you may have had before, although both are made with egg whites and almond paste.

We tried the caramel et fleur de sel (caramel with a bit of salt), pina colada, and coquelicot (a red flower similar to a poppy). They were all very interesting, especially the fleur de sel which had a combination of sweet and savory. I would say you must try the coquelicot because it is most unlike any typical dessert flavor. Their blog has a full list of flavors. All were yummy and inspire me to try baking these treats, however I have a feeling it won't be easy.


For more Montreal treats.

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Bike-sharing in Montreal and soon to be in Boston and London

Upon my return to Montreal the lines of gray and black, identical bicycles got my attention right away. They were not there last year. What I learned is that Montreal has implemented a bike sharing program with the company BIXI. Now residents and visitors have the option to rent these bikes for either $78 a year, $28 a month, or $5 a day. If you choose to pay by the hour it's $1.50 per half hour, the first half hour free. Part bike and part taxi, hence the name BIXI, not only is the company health conscious but also earth conscious. BIXI uses solar panel docking stations and provides people with an easy medium of transportation. There are about 3,000 bikes at 300 bike stations around Montreal. Supporters of this program are also happy the BIXI is a Montreal company, hence creating more jobs for its residents.

Boston and London are said to have signed on for the project as well. Boston has been pushing for more bike paths. In recent years bike paths have sprung up around NYC. What about a bike sharing program for NYC? and more.



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Bike Watching in Montreal

Preferred mode of transportation for Montrealers, why bike of course!


My old bike!


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La Banquise: Poutine in Montreal

Cultural legend says that poutine was invented after a customer suggested putting cheese curd on his fries. The owner obliged to the request and responded with some snark saying, ça va faire une maudite poutine, "it will make a damn mess." If you've seen poutine you know what he's talking about. Poutine is a damn mess, an indulgent mess that makes you feel somewhat guilty enjoying the chaos, however if you are a fan of comfort food trust me you will enjoy.

Poutine is a fairly easy concept.

• First you fry some potatoes.
  
• Top the fries with cheese curd.
• Cover with gravy.

Before you turn away in fear and dismay you must keep an open mind for this national food. Poutine is the perfect dish after a night of heavy drinking, especially in a city like Montreal known for its blistering winters. No doubt the heavy goodness will keep you warm and most likely completely full for days after eating. Poutine is the perfect complement for a Jersey girl who is accustomed to frequenting NJ diners, although I have never had the courage to order the "disco fries" that don many diner menus. So in Montreal I embarked on the greasy, artery clogging journey into the world of cheese covered fries.

La Banquise is a Montreal staple and any true Quebecer will tell you to eat here at least once. When I first arrived in Montreal a year ago I was told to try one of the many poutine dishes at the local resto and to my shame I never did, therefore this trip I was determined to do so. First off, anyone hoping for a light meal at La Banquise will be utterly disappointed, so don't even bother entering its doors if you plan on ordering something like a salad. Psh and why would you? What with the delicious, damn mess that awaits you.

La Banquise will have at least 25 different poutines at a given time, a promise ensured on the menu. The various poutine dishes stray from the classic poutine recipe. After offering an Italian poutine years ago to much appraisal, La Banquise decided to play around with the menu and make more adjustments. Since then customers are able to enjoy such dishes as the Poutine Kamikaze, Poutine Mexicaine, Poutine Pizza, Poutine Vege, and Poutine Obelix, concoctions that include pepperoni, sausage, veggies, and chicken along with the traditional ingredients.

Below is the Poutine Pizza which I ordered. The Poutine Pizza has pepperoni, green peppers, and mushrooms along with the traditional ingredients. It is strange that these ingredients do resemble the taste of pizza, although I've never had my pizza covered in gravy before.

A friend ordered the Poutine Ole Ole which I must say was one of my favorites. On top of your fries you will have the cheese curd, meat sauce, hot peppers, and Tabasco. Mmm bring on that heartburn.

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Why Montreal?

When I arrived to Montreal after 1 year of being away, I felt a twinge of sadness for what I had left behind. I had left behind a city that I loved so much, a city that had become my own. Initially it was hard for me to leave, but I had to move forward and continue on with my journey, wherever that may have led next.

What is it that makes Montreal so special? Lots of my friends have asked me this question when I had toyed around with making Montreal somewhat of a permanent residence. I have been able to come up with many answers: the lifestyle, the festivals, the people, the languages, the culture, the accessibility of riding a bike, people watching, etc etc. When I asked people from Montreal why they stay, they all say the same thing. The city has a charm that is unique. There is a certain je ne sais quoi that is hard to pinpoint.

A good friend, faced with the decision of leaving Montreal to go back to Toronto, created a clever and ever so fitting metaphor for both cities. He said his decision was like choosing between two women, both very different and appealing for different reasons. Montreal is the sexy woman, full of life, culture, passion and excitement. Toronto is the rational woman where he can have security and support, which will allow him to focus on his career. Of course these are very personal opinions, not to say that Toronto is boring, far from it in fact, but rather that Montreal represents something for him as it does for me. Maybe it's because I myself have always leaned towards excitement that I feel the gravitational pull that a city such as Montreal has upon its visitors. For us, myself and my friend choosing between two amazing women, Montreal is our first love, the one that is hard to forget.


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People Watching at Mont Royal Lookout Points

The small mountain of Mont Royal is located smack dab in the middle of the island of Montreal. The mountain is more like a hill in terms of size, but compared to the rest of the city it is an impressive centerpiece, a remnant of an eroded volcanic complex. In the summer people walk, jog, and bike up to the top. In the winter you can go cross country skiing, sledding, snow shoeing and other snow friendly activities. It is very fitting to have this outdoor playground in the middle of a city with such active inhabitants. The streets are just as filled with people riding their bikes and walking around as they are with cars.

There is a beautiful view from the lookout point at the top of Mont Royal, just a short walk from Beaver Lake. You can see downtown Montreal, the bridges that connect to Montreal island, as well as Island Sainte Helene, where you can visit the biosphere or La Ronde amusement park. If you look closely at the picture below you can see a red roller coaster. During the summer there is a firework show every Saturday that you can watch from Sainte Helene and the Old Port. A different country hosts these shows each week. Sadly I have yet to see any of these shows.


Watching everyone with their bikes made me really nostalgic for my tiny, blue, city cruiser I used to ride last year.


This woman decided to get some sun after a ride to the top.

There is another lookout point at the opposite end side of Mont Royal. The only way to get to it is by car, or through a more discreet path from the middle of the mountain. The road less traveled if you will. Last year I stumbled upon it by accident with a few friends. The lookout itself isn't too impressive (it is basically an extension of a small parking lot) however the view is worth it. You can see eastern Montreal, including the Olympic stadium in the distance. Also the sunset is much prettier from here, in my humble opinion. A couple times when I went up Mont Royal at night I noticed that people tend to convene here with wine and other alcoholic beverages, which I assume they do before going out. I'm not sure what the legalities are behind this practice, therefore it is probably safer if you enjoy a bottle of wine at a close by cafe.

I took this picture at Beaver Lake during sunset last fall.

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Road Trip Back To Montreal

New York City to Montreal takes approximately 6-7 hours in car, and it was approximately 6-7 hours that I spent listening to a book on tape, brushing up on some French, humming to sickeningly catchy pop tunes, and of course pondering the answer to life's biggest questions. My silver civic has gotten me pretty far throughout our time together, with minimal disappointments, chugging along route 87 with ease; although somewhere along the Adirondacks I really started to wish I had gone for the extra coffee and accessible munchies. The anticipation of seeing the city I left behind a year ago was building, as the radio stations slowly started to change from country to French. The Quebecois accent I used to find jarring and strange was suddenly comforting. I'm back! Montreal m'a tellement manqué.

Canada my second home!

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About Me

Gringa Española is a name that was given to me by a friend of mine which has sorta stuck. I'm an American born Spaniard, Puerto Rican, and Mexican. My grandmother also claims that there is French somewhere in there as well (which makes me smile). Needless to say I've experienced an identity crisis a time or two.

I was born and raised in a small town in New Jersey, just 20 minutes outside of New York City. I love New Jersey and New York City equally, although New Jersey will always be home. Yes I really did say I love New Jersey. Why are you surprised?

So how did this blog come about?

In April 2008 I made the decision to quit my job as a media research analyst in New York City and move to Montreal in order to learn French. I have always been slightly obsessed with French in general, and seeing as Montreal is much closer to home than France (not to mention much less expensive) I made the move.

Currently I am a writer and photographer, and full time blogger.

Other nonessential tidbits.

I'm hopelessly addicted to frozen yogurt, my puppy Nico, Anthony Bourdain, and pomegranates. I talk in my sleep and wonder if people heard me when I was staying at hostels. I have lived in the beautiful Garden State NJ, New York City, Madrid, Florence, andMontreal.

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Calca Market

There is no secret that I love markets. I honestly don't think there is a better, more public way of seeing a culture, all the food and customs out for display, the people gathered and slowly chatting and doing their day's work. Of course the fact that I'm surrounded by all sorts of food doesn't hurt either.

Before we started off our trek towards Machu Picchu, our tour guide picked us up bright and early, and was a little upset that we had him waiting 10 minutes while we lugged out our belongings sleepily and slowly to the car. It took us about an hour to get to Calca, my memory fails me with the exact specifics. Calca is a small town in the Calca province. We stopped to get some food and drinks and to orient ourselves before we began. We didn't see much of the town besides the market, that despite the early hour was pretty busy.

Growing up in a Spanish household, as well as my frequent visits to Galicia, have made me pretty accustomed to seeing fish with the head still attached, dead chickens with some sparing feathers, pigs feet, intestines, and most others animal parts and nasty bits that are meant to be consumed. It may not have phased me, but I could tell some of my companions were not feeling as at ease. It is important to pay attention, even if it makes you uneasy, because the items found in each market reflect the customs of a culture. It is really a question of resources. You use what is available for you.
A poor family will undoubtedly make sure to use all parts of whatever animals are available. It would be extremely wasteful to throw out anything if there was a chance to keep your family well fed. The traditions have held on throughout the years, hence why many cultures continue to cook with the same ingredients people have used for hundreds of years. Of course other factors, such as religion and wealth, also have a lot of influence in everyday cuisine. A vegetarian from Gujurat will have a much different diet than a Catholic from Kerala, for example. Nevertheless if you want an overall idea make your way over to the nearest, local market and you will see.
Warning, nasty bits are below. Scroll with caution.


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Vote For Mexico No Hay Dos at Photography Book Now

I recently entered a photo book contest at Photography Book Now. The book I entered is a compilation of photographs I took while traveling throughout Mexico. Winners will be awarded in the categories of Fine Art, Editorial, and Commercial. Along with the judges categories there is also a People's Choice Award. Please take a look at my photo book and if you like what you see, vote for it! Just press on the orange ribbon above. It was a lot of fun to create the book, and as always it was a lot of fun to travel and take pictures.
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Making Conversation in Barrio San Blas

In order to reach the San Blas neighborhood you need to climb up the somewhat steep (or maybe it's just the altitude) San Blas hill. After passing lots of shops and artfully avoiding the cobblestone street, while balancing on the mini sidewalk made of stone, you will eventually reach a plaza. This my friends, is the San Blas neighborhood. The neighborhood offers spectacular views of the city, as well as its signature red tiled roofs, white washed houses, and blue doors.

In the plaza there are a few art galleries featuring Peruvian artists. The artwork is incredible, as well as incredibly priced. I would suggest buying a few pieces if you are able to bring them back with you.

On your way up to the plaza there are also tons of tourists shops where you can shop for some souvenirs.

San Blas is traditionally where many artists lived and like most neighborhoods of its kind, it is quickly becoming a trendy area of Cusco, undoubtedly attracting travelers who are more interested in this bohemian enclave. Expect less crowds than in the Plaza de Armas but there are more and more restaurants and cafes popping up.

The Church of San Blas is also in the plaza. There will most likely be people sitting at the steps as well as vendors outside trying to sell you some handicrafts.

San Blas is known for having these brilliant bright blue doors and windows.

It is surprising how the conversation can flow so naturally with complete strangers, in particular while traveling, where I have had the good fortune of encountering many interesting and congenial people. While snapping pictures in the plaza, and completely engrossed in my surroundings, I didn't notice that I had grabbed the attention of two men selling bracelets and other handicrafts along a white fence. Luis and his friend (whose name has slipped my mind at the moment) introduced themselves and in a matter of minutes it seemed like Luis had really warmed up to me. He told me about his family and his child and his love for his country but also his desire to move away. Soon the conversation led to what I missed most about home; without any hesitation I told him my dog Nico. He smirked and asked if I was talking about a boyfriend. His cacophony of laughter proved that he was making a machista joke about men liking the company of many women or something similar. Latin men never cease to amaze me and make me laugh, especially since he clearly was getting such amusement from it all. I assured him that my dog was in fact of the canine persuasion. Luis made me promise I would send him this picture (his friend was a bit camera shy). Si estas leyendo esto Luis, espero que estes bien!



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Just another Monday morning in Cusco

During the week Cusco is a completely different city than on the weekend where you will find mostly tourists roaming the streets looking for alpaca duds and pisco sours. What used to be bare streets were now packed with Peruvians following their daily routine of going to work, waiting for the bus, walking their kids to school, or snatching a part of the sidewalk where they will sell some food or handicrafts to strolling pedestrians. It was a nice change to not only be surrounded by tourists like myself, but rather a group of people who live in this city. They aren't stopping at every corner to bask at the sites, but rather they pass by the Plaza de Armas giving a cursory glance of recognition. After all they see it everyday. By being around locals you may perhaps be given a glimpse of how people really live their lives; if you're lucky.


Shoe shiners in Cusco


People waiting for the bus

Cusco is small and easy to manage, especially if you compare it to the capital Lima. The Plaza de Armas is the most distinctive image of Cusco city. Most travel paraphernalia plasters pictures of the plaza and the cathedral througout many of its pages. My second day in Cusco I was considerably less winded from the lack of oxygen in the air and made use of some time to myself to stroll the Plaza and sit at the steps of the Cathedral. My visit thus far had been filled with colonial influenced buildings and Catholic tradition. The Plaza de Armas was no different, however I knew that in a few days I would be looking out at a completely different marvel, one that had nothing to do with colonial influence. Machu Picchu, the lost civilization, would not have domed bell towers, ornate balconies, or elaborate Gothic paintings of the Resurrection. There would be no carved crosses or images of the Virgin Mary. Both cultures so different yet an indelible part of Peruvian culture.

Below is a map of the main sites in Cusco as well as some photos of what you should be looking for.


Map of sites in Cusco provided by Frommers.


Iglesia de la Compañia de Jesus


Cathedral


Convento de la Merced


Iglesia de San Blas
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Bourdain is back

No Reservations is back! The excitement started to build when I saw the episode guide on the Anthony Bourdain website. Looks like he will be traveling to many interesting places for the second part of this season, including Chile, Australia, the Rockies, and Buffalo New York. Yesterday the Travel Network offered a No Reservations marathon. While I've seen most of the episodes, I still welcome the opportunity to watch them all day on a lazy afternoon. Anthony writes on his blog that he may or may not have gone to Kerala India, which is where a very close friend of mine is from, so naturally I have a lot to look forward to this season, and so does everyone else! Tonight Bourdain will be in Chile which means there will most likely be endless supplies of meat, fresh seafood and beautiful footage of Patagonia. Another episodethis season is dedicated to the outer boroughs of New York City, which are often forgotten by tourists, but happen to have some of the yummiest dishes and ethnic food that NYC has to offer.
Can't wait for tonight!!
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Plaza de Armas, Cusco Photo Journal

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New York City and Petanque

One of the reasons New York City is so unique is because of the conspicuous happenstances you come across everyday. You can see a businessman in heels chasing down a bus, a naked cowboy with a guitar in Times Square, the 6 mile expanse of green smack dab in the middle of a high rising metropolis, or a juggler performing on the side of the FDR Drive and merely chalk it up the the fact that anything, and I mean anything, can happen in New York City.

This past spring I was walking around and taking pictures with a friend of mine. I never got a chance to post them and I wanted to because I think they are so quintessential NYC. Not necessarily momentous, but rather a mundane and casual afternoon.

Washington Square Park finally is opened to the public. All the other times I visited in the past 2 years I had the misfortune to see uninviting gates and fence surrounding the area where I used to roam instead of attending classes. This spring day the park returned to what I remember most about New York City, the way people come together to use the public space, in particular the parks that are always bustling with people playing games, catching some rays, walking their dogs, or going for a stroll.

In the park you will often find a group of men throwing around a metal ball. We decided to ask them the name of the game we had seen many times before but didn't really understand. One of the guys told us it was a French game named petanque (similar to Italian bocce or English bowls).


The purpose of petanque, played by millions of French in the summer months, is to throw hollow metal balls as close as possible to a wooden ball called the cochonnet. It is often played on a dirt surface which I would imagine provides an appropriate cushion for the metal balls being thrown.

You throw the ball with somewhat of an arc as you can see with the guy below. I thought the cigar in his mouth was an authentic touch, because in my mind I imagine lots of men coming together to play, smoke cigars, talk about sports, and enjoy the good weather and company. But that is my interpretation.

The origin of the games petanque, bocce, and bowls, is said to derive from Ancient Greece and Rome. For a full set of rules on how to play petanque check it out here.
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Pollo Chilindrón

Pollo al Chilindrón

Whenever I don't know what to make for dinner, rest assured I usually end up cooking with some sort of peppers. Like a good Spanish girl, I'm a huge pepper fan. I make variations of Pollo al Chilindrón pretty frequently, since its not all that difficult. Expect it to take around 2 hours (it is a stew after all) because it requires one hour of simmering. But trust me it is very yummy once it's time to eat it.

Pollo al Chilindrón is from the Aragón region in Spain, which is comprised of the provinces Zaragoza, Huesca, and Teruel in the northeast section of Spain, but it is eaten throughout the country.

Ingredients
4 chicken breasts (legs, thigh depending on preference)
Sea salt freshly ground black pepper
Rosemary
1/4 cup olive oil
1 medium onion (chopped)
1 large red bell pepper (sliced into thin strips or chopped)
1 large green bell pepper (sliced into thin strips or chopped)
4 medium sized tomatoes (peeled, seeded, and chopped) or 1 1/2 cup tomato sauce
1 cup jamón Serrano (Spanish cured ham)
1 cup of white wine
Minced garlic
1 teaspoon sweet pimentón (Spanish smoked paprika (pimentón)
1 bay leaf
1 cup of water


Cut chicken breasts into smaller pieces and season with salt, black pepper, and rosemary. Heat a spoonful of olive oil in a large frying pan and cook chicken, working in batches, until the chicken is brown on both sides. Remove the chicken and set aside. Add 1/4 cup of olive oil to the pan and after heating, add the onions and peppers. Cook on a low heat for about 25 minutes until the vegetables start to brown.

If the vegetables are getting dry make sure to add a tablespoon of water so they do not burn. Once they are finished cooking add the garlic and cook for another 5 minutes. Now add the white wine and cook until it evaporates which should be another 5 minutes.

Add the jamón Serrano and chicken pieces and stir. Make sure to keep any juices that have collected from the chicken and add to the mix as well. Cook for 5 minutes before adding the tomatoes (or tomato sauce), pimentón, 1 cup of water, and the bay leaf. Cook for 1 hour until the chicken is nice and tender or coming off the bone (for the legs and thighs). Season with salt and pepper to your taste.

Buen provecho!



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Bright Pink Sky

Friday night there was a weird light coming through the windows of my house. My brother and I went outside and saw that the sky was bright pink. Not just the sky in fact, but everything. The light was reflecting off of the street, cars, houses and yards. It was a little bizarre just how bright it was, looking somewhat like a sci-fi movie, I half expected to see aliens buzzing around. There had been several thunderstorms throughout the day which left the sky looking pretty damn cool.



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The Fog In Lima

The typical tourist route in Peru is to head to Cusco after visiting Lima. Since we only had a little over a week in Peru we decided to do just that. We would spend a few days adjusting to the altitude, as well as enjoying the city. Every guidebook suggests staying a few days in Cusco before doing the trails to Machu Picchu. Please take there warnings seriously. I had an interesting bout of altitude sickness on the trail (more about that later).

Our flight to Cusco was delayed because of a dense fog that descended upon Lima. From what I know about Lima, and what I experienced on most days, is that it is common in the winter for Lima to be covered in fog, especially the closer you get to the water. As usual I'm not exactly looking forward to the flight and a delay just makes the anxiety of waiting that much worse. One of my friends caught me taking a quick nap at the airport.






















The flight into Cusco was beautiful. Since Cusco is in the midst of a bunch of mountain ranges, on our descent we passed a few snow capped mountain.



























































We saw a bunch of advertisements in the airport for oxishot, basically oxygen in a bottle. There was also an oxishot vendor on premises. We decided against buying the oxygen, thinking it was unnecessary, probably a little presumptuous of us. Actually in Cusco it pretty much was unnecessary, since we all didn't feel too many symptoms from the altitude, however on the Lares Trail I would have been a lot happier if I had one of these bad boys.


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Montreal's Cocoa Locale

I love sweets. Cupcakes, ice cream, gelato, crème brûlée, you name it, I love it. Ever since I went to college in NYC, my friends and I have searched for the best of the best that dessert has to offer. When the cupcake craze hit NYC and the little cakes became trendy, more and more shops opened in cities everywhere. So needless to say my friends and I were always on the search for the perfect cupcake.






















Montreal has a lot to offer to sweet-tooth foodies like myself. There are plenty of patisseries, bakeries, dessert cafes, and cupcake shops to choose from. One of my favorites however is a small local bakery, owned by one woman. She calls her work a one woman show. She works on her own, baking and handling the register. The kitchen is out front so you see exactly how the cakes are made.
It may sound corny but the cakes taste like they've been made with lots of love.


Reema Singh is the owner/founder of Cocoa Locale, and she is located on Avenue Du Parc, just north of Avenue du Mont-Royale. Some of the cupcake (and cake) flavors I tasted were, strawberry, vanilla, lemon with coconut, chocolate chai, and chocolate mint (all really yummy although I think lemon with coconut was my favorite). The cake is moist and tastes homemade because well they are. The shop is her home afterall, she is the only one baking. There are regulars who come in and greet Reema asking her questions only a friend would know. I left my camera in the shop and called. She answered and remembered who we were and kindly put aside my camera for me to pick up. The baked creations she decorates with a small flower, a nice touch if you ask me.
The shop is cute, decorated with vintage photographs. Oh and the best part. There is a swing!


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I Am In Love With An Assassin

Before I get any phone calls from worried relatives, I want to state that I am not personally in love with an assassin, but rather I read an article about a British Journalist who fell in love with one. Phew, now that that's settled.

In this month's July issue of Marie Claire, journalist Jason P. Howe describes his pretty 'normal' relationship with a woman who was involved in a completely atypical situation. Below are Howe and his girlfriend Marylin.



I love Marie Claire, precisely because the magazine offers so much more than the typical women's magazine articles, you know the type, 'how to please your guy with just your pinky finger,' or 'the one day secret diet to loosing 10 pounds.' Marie Claire, along with the fluff pieces, offers stories about issues that concern people, especially women, from across the globe. One of the stories that really intrigued me a couple months ago, was regarding a group of women in India who were fed up with rapists, abusers, and corrupt officials getting away with their crimes, so naturally they took justice in their own hands and formed the Gulabi Gang, a group of crime fighting women. Talk about Batman with a twist.


Jason P. Howe's story is also pretty incredible. He was on assignment in Colombia and met Marylin. She invited him over to her house, where she lived with her parents and daughter. Soon they feel in love, not unlike many of us have experienced before. We have all kept secrets from our significant others at some point or another for fear of them judging us, however Marylin had a secret that would be hard for anyone to guess. She was an assassin for the paramilitary groups of her country. She killed on a regular basis, often brutally and with the intention to strike fear in others, which means that the bodies are often grotesquely displayed. Talk about a shocker for poor Jason. The article is intriguing however as Jason tries to grasp how the person he loves could kill with such disinterest and nonchalance. Click here to read the whole article.
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Baaaaahh.... Playing With Animals In Cusco

Cusco, Peru















Yup that's me with a lamb!
My doctor told me to stay away from animals on my trip, you know the usual precautions, rabies, infection etc... But he was just so cute.



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Taxi and Huayno Peruano

Finally it was time to leave Lima and frankly I was a little sad. There is never enough time to see a whole city, however only a few days seemed like bad planning.

But alas we had to depart, so we hailed a cab and made our way to the airport, in order to catch our flight to Cusco. This taxi was the most high tech taxi we had seen in all of Lima. Whereas most cabs were old and shabby looking, this driver looked like he was trying out for MTV's Pimp My Taxi.

This innovative driver had a television screen with a connecting dvd player in his car. Don't overestimate however, it was nothing like the touchscreens now seen in NYC cabs, where you can play around in the back seat, although it did make for some interesting entertainment. The best part of the car was the telephone the driver pulled out from somewhere in the front seat. It wasn't a car phone no no, (that would be too obvious), it wasn't a cell phone (again obvious), but rather a land line telephone that he somehow got to work inside the cab. He explained it to us but I'm not one for technology chats.

He had DVDs for us to choose from, most of them music DVDs. He suggested we choose traditional Peruvian music, music he called huayno. Little did we know that this would be our first taste of the music we would soon be hearing all over. Huayno is very distinguishable and especially for those hearing it for the first time, it is most definitely an acquired taste. The vocals are extremely high pitched and accompanied by flute, harp, panpipe, guitar, charango, and mandolin. Below is a song by Stalim Manrique.


















Huayno Dancers
Photo by: Otra vez me hice Mujer

Huayno is very popular in Andean culture. You can hear it in the mountains of Peru, often transmitted by radio, since many of the people living there do not have televisions. The music may seem a little strange to travelers when they hear it, since the sound is very unique. After all the singing is high pitched and can seem a little off key, but the tradition has lasted for a very long time, since pre-Hispanic Peru. No doubt there is lots of emotion, often about love, love lost, unrequited love, you get the idea. One of the songs I heard in the cab was about a man whose lover drove him so crazy he resorted to alcohol. The lyrics were funny and although I don't remember them exactly they were something like "I love you so much that I must drink." I understand the sentiment but for me it usually involves Ben & Jerry's rather than Johnnie Walker.

In huayno, often times you will hear people in the background, children speaking, or people cheering the singer on.
"Que sigue bailando" Keep dancing.
"Ay mi corazoncito" Oh my heart.
I admit I don't listen to huayno much in the privacy of my own home, but take a look for yourself and experience the music from a very rich culture.

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Inka Lounge Hostel Lima

For my first night in Lima I stayed at Inka Lounge Hostel in Miraflores. The hostel arranged for someone to pick me up at the airport for $15, which is a very reasonable price for the 30 minute cab ride from the airport to Miraflores. In Lima it is customary to negotiate the price of the cab ride before you enter, since there are no meters in the cabs. Do not forget to handle that beforehand if you want to avoid headaches later on. My driver was holding up a sign with my name on it amongst what seemed like hundreds of people waiting in the crowd for their prospective customers. He was very friendly and chatty, especially with all his swine flu questions. Suddenly I was an authority on the matter because of my American passport (note to self - start using the Spanish one).


When we arrived, I was tired and frankly a bit delirious from the flight. I didn't have any soles to give the cab driver a tip, but later I felt less guilty when I found out that taxi drivers in Peru don't expect tips. Although my cab driver seemed a bit hesitant to say goodbye, so I'm assuming many Americans give tips anyhow. When I arrived there was a group of people sitting in the common area of the hostel watching a movie. If I wasn't so very much looking forward to the feeling of my face hitting something resembling a mattress I would have tried to meet some new people, but I decided to check in as quick as possible and make my way to my room. Clearly sleep trumps socializing when fighting the effects of a sleeping pill.

The guy at the front desk Edgar was extremely helpful, and if I do say so myself, rather good looking. Still the sleeping pill won over the urge to keep talking to a handsome stranger. When I got to my room it was clean and had two beds. Finally the moment I've been waiting for.

The Inka Lounge Hostel is located in Miraflores. As hostels are concerned it is pretty standard although I would recommend it to anyone. I stayed in the single room and it was quiet and comfortable and cheap, a perfect combination after a long flight.

The Inka Lounge Hostel Website
Rates
Shared Rooms $7 US
Single Room $12 US
Double Room $10.50 US

All rooms share bathrooms
All rooms are per person

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El Centro de Lima Photo Journal

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Miraflores Photo Journal

Miraflores was one of my favorite neighborhoods in Lima, primarily because of the vibrant colors of the buildings. Part of my travel experience is wandering around streets and neighborhoods and Miraflores makes it easy to appreciate. The flâneur will feel at home walking the quiet residential streets as well as the busy squares and center.

Lima proved to be a great city to start off my South America tour. I felt comfortable walking around on my own (during the day) and with friends at night. Miraflores is a safe neighborhood in Lima, therefore you should be cautious and avoid other neighborhoods at night (and even during the day). At my hostel one of the employees highlighted on a map which area I should avoid. You can ask your hostel or hotel to do the same. Below are some pictures of the Miraflores neighborhood.

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Larcomar in Miraflores

Larcomar
One of the popular places to go out in Lima is Larcomar. Larcomar is a small mall in the Miraflores neighborhood. It is nice because it is right on the cliff overlooking the ocean. At night you can hardly see the water, but you can smell the salt in the air and feel the breeze that blows in from the ocean. It´s nice to step outside for a breath of fresh air, especially because some of the clubs allow smoking.
I was a bit surprised to see this restaurant in Lima. Apparently Hooters translates into Spanish.
Fountain at Larcomar.
Larcomar at night.


Mama Batata is one of the bar/clubs in Larcomar. The sign suggests the bar is open from 8pm until whenever you choose to leave, however don´t let it fool you. The bars in Lima close around 4am.
There were a bunch of baskets hanging from the ceiling. Don´t know why but it made for an interesting atmosphere. There were much more tourists here than other bars we had gone too, however there is also a local crowd.
Don´t believe the sign. The beer is not free!
For more information about the restaurants, clubs, and stores at Larcomar you can check out the Larcomar Website.

Bars and Discos

Aura Food Court

BARTINI Plaza Gourmet

Gótica Deck Food Court

Mamá Batáta Mezannine Plaza Gourmet

XCESS BAR Sótano de la Plaza Gourmet Tda. 302

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Central Lima

It took us about half an hour to get to Central Lima from Miraflores. Lima is a lot bigger than I had anticipated. In fact it is the 5th largest city in Latin America, behind Mexico City, Sao Paulo, Buenos Aires, and Rio de Janeiro.

Plaza de Armas

Around the Plaza de Armas, many of the colonial buildings are still standing, however earthquakes in 1687 and 1746 left many buildings damaged.

Decorative balconies are a feature of the colonial legacy of Lima. Around the city, in particular the city center, you will notice these ostentatious balconies.

There were lots of school groups in Central Lima. All of them were wearing some sort of uniform. Must say I´m glad my Catholic school days are over.

One of the most interesting sites we saw in Central Lima were the catacombs in the Museo del Convento de San Francisco. You aren´t supposed to take pictures inside the catacombs, but I tried my bestto provide one. As you can see by the quality of the photo I didn´t do such a great job. I was scared of the tour guide! Not to mention all the possible curses from the skeletons buried in there. Definitely not taking any chances.

Just outside the catacombs there was a group of kids were playing a game. Basically they surrounded one another in a circle and two people were in the middle. One of the kids struggles to take a cloth from the other kids while everyone else cheers on. Then if they end up getting the cloth another contender comes into the circle to compete.

Plaza San Martin

When you look around the Plaza San Martin, it seems almost as if you are in Europe. The buildings have a French style and lack the color of other plazas in Lima.

The Gran Hotel Bolivar is the oldest hotel in all of Lima. Today it certainly doesn´t have the splendor of its past, however it is typical to get a pisco sour within the hotel or tea. As soon as we entered we were offered pisco sours by a couple of hotel employees, however their upfrontness turned us off and we decided to get our piscos somewhere else.

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What Lima does best: Ceviche and Pisco Sours

Peruvian food is famous throughout the world, and if you go to Lima you will see why. It is one of the most diverse cuisines and has currently become a popular cuisine to study by top chefs. Since Peru has such a diverse culture and multicultural background that includes, pre-Inca, Spanish, French, and Japanese to name a few, the food combines a variety of flavors. Not to mention the homegrown local ingredients that make the cuisine very unique. One of the highlights of my trip has been the soups we have eaten, where even a typically boring chicken soup (which they call diet soup) is just so good.

It seems like no matter where you go in Lima the ceviche is incredible. We ate some ceviche at a small restaurant in downtown Lima. The fish is fresh, as it should be considering how close you are to the ocean. If you look closely at the picture above you can see some Peruvian corn, or as I like to affectionately call it ´giant´corn. It is much larger than I´ve ever seen and has a softer texture.

The Pisco Sour is Peru´s national drink. It is pretty yummy, and made from Pisco, brandy made from grapes. Our bartender made a few Pisco Sour for us and showed us the process on how to make one.

Recipe:

3 parts Peruvian Pisco
1 part lime juice
1 part sugar syrup (jarabe de goma)
1 egg white
a drop of Angostura bitter

Astrid y Gastón is a popular restaurant in Lima and always written about in the guidebooks, however I can assure you that the food is incredible. Seriously I want the chef Gastón Acurio to be a part of my family so I can have his dishes whenever my little heart desires. He was born in Lima and has helped make Peruvian food a popular cuisine around the world, not to mention make little tourists such as myself smile with glee.

Of course we had to try the ceviche at Astrid y Gaston´s and so far it has been the best I have ever tasted. We tried the ´travieso´ceviche which was a mix of the catch of the day. I cannot reiterate how goooood the ceviche tasted.
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Love In Lima

El Parque Del Amor

El Parque del Amor (Love Park) is along the Malecon. Guidebooks lead you to believe that the colorful ceramic, design is very similar to Park Guell in Barcelona, and it is, but on a much smaller scale. Couples sit on the walls as if no one is watching them. It´s a little voyeuristic. My gringa sensibilities make me a little uncomfortable to show that emotion in front of a bunch of picture taking tourists, but these guys seem to ok with displaying their amor in public.On Valentine´s Day people go to the park and compete in a contest for the longest kiss. Not really sure what the winners get as a prize, but you can use your imagination.

There are quotes written into the walls of the murals.

Mi sangre esta alcanzando a las estrellas (My blood is reaching the stars) - Jose Maria Arguedas

Some othe quotes found in the park:

Te desvisto como quien pela una fruta

(I undress you like someone peels a piece of fruit)- Jorge Diaz Herrera

A ti como la luz del mundo a las ventanas

(To you like the light of the world in the windows)- Juan Gonzalo Rose

Somos un poco la sombra de lo que fuimos

(We are a bit like the shade of what we used to be)- Oscar Valdivia

In the center of the park is a statue of a couple fully embracing, seemingly pre-coital. It stirred up some contreversy since Peru is a fairly conservative country. The creator of the stautue is Peruvian artist Victor Delfin.Someone wrote this quote on the ledge of the wall along the Malecon.
(The views of a lighthouse are distant. Just like love, it seems far to never return).

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Strolling Along El Malecon

It was 8am on el dia del trabajo (day of work) and the streets were dead. El dia del trabajo is basically a Peruvian Labor Day. One particularity of Lima is the cloud of fog that creeps up from the shore, especially in the early morning.The Malecon de Miraflores is a park that runs along the Pacific Ocean. I was extremely excited to see the ocean, but as you can see from the picture above, the fog was so thick you couldn´t see anything. It was a strange feeling not being able to see what was right in front of you.

There were tons of people jogging and working out along the Malecon. Everyone was very friendly and stop to smile and say hello. A few people saw me fidgeting with a map and asked if I needed help.

The faro (lighthouse) is small. Not sure how ships were able to see the lighthouse with the constant fog.
The Malecon is on top of a cliff overlooking the beach.
If you look closely you can see some surfers swimming below.

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Lima Smells Like Saltwater

Finally I set foot on South America! There was so much fog coming into Lima that we could hardly tell when we were about to land. As much as all of us couldn´t wait to get off the plane after sitting still in uncomfortable seats for six hours we were forced to wait before Peruvian doctors (donned in white coats and white medical masks) came aboard and made sure none of us were carrying the swine flu virus. Not sure what they were looking for exactly. I mean I have successfully faked sickness throughout middle and high school. I´m assuming it may be possible to feign health right? As we disembarked we passed by many airport employees each wearing this mask. Ok now I was starting to feel a little insecure. There were literally hundreds of people waiting outside to pick up customers. I look through the crowd until I finally see my guy holding up my name. In Lima the air smells like sea, salty a little musky and just a bit humid. The airport is near the biggest port in Peru, which may be why there is a slight scent of industry in the air. Fog covers the streets. The cab driver decides to drive along the beach in order to avoid the traffic lights. All we could see was endless darkness. Can´t wait to see it in daylight.
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Two Men Spotted In Tutus At Newark Airport - Swine Flu Masks Everywhere

As per usual I was rushing to the airport, but as luck would have it, they tell me to cut everyone on the line. What can I say, sometimes it pays to be late. While sitting at the terminal, bored and anxiously awaiting to board the plane, I notice two grown men wearing pink, Disney princess dresses. Why you might ask? Good question but it is one I cannot answer at the moment. Both dresses were frilly with poofy sleeves and lace trim. The dress pinched at the waist and flared out underneath. Let´s just say I´m almost positive one was a man, but the other princess clad individual was a bit more questionable. He had more delicate features and a daintier voice, although I´ve been fooled before. A good guess is that they are in their 50s. Ah yes and how can I forget the pictures of the Disney Princesses on the bottom. Two thumbs up for these guys. I hesitate to leave the house without concealer and these guys can do just about anything, it seems. I really wanted to ask them why they were wearing the dress of littl girls´ dreams, however I was too tired, anxious, and sleep deprived to attempt normal conversation. (If you can call talking to a grown man wearing a princess dress normal). It was too early in the trip for absurb encounters. I was still in Newark, New Jersey for crying out loud. Not to mention the pill my friend had ever so politely given me was starting to kick in. Take that fear of flying! Soon I entered my pill induced stupor.

In Newark there were some people wearing masks because of the fear of swine flu, but for the most part everyone seemed calm. Only a few people on my flight had the mask on however the guy next to me would not stop sneezing or coughing. Each plegm filled cough made me more and more nervous. The antibacterial gel came in handy, as I applied it every half hour and held a tissue to my face. All politeness went out the window as I turned completely away from him and avoided eye contact. It`s pig flu for crying out loud. Not taking any chances. At the Houston airport a good majority of people were wearing masks which didn`t help with my anxiety. Damnit for not thinking ahead and subscribing to mass hysteria.

Endless wandering around the airport as well as an impromptu call to a friend caused me to loose track of time. All of a sudden I hear my name over the loud speaker. I run to the terminal and apologize. While entering the plane I received lots of dirty looks from perturbed passengers. I could feel their disdain behind those blue medical masks. Their eyes were throwing tiny daggers.
Time for the other half of my plane fear pill.... mmm nice calm.
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MOMA - Target Free Fridays

Times are rough for many, but that doesn't mean you should give up your right to art. The MOMA offers Target Free Fridays, which means if you go from 4pm to 6pm you don't need to pay a dime. You enter the museum and grab a ticket from the ticket counter and then they whisk you on your way.
The museum was crowded needless to say because of the free entrance, but the excess people made for some interesting shots.Andy Warhol Gold Marilyn Monroe. An icon commemorates another icon.Roy Lichtenstein Girl Drowning. The painting reads: I don't care! I'd rather sink - - than call Brad for help. One of my favorite paintings.
Strewn on the floor was what looked like a pile of paper mache and thread. I do try to keep an open mind when it comes to art, particularly modern art, however the concept was lost for me on this one.
Pablo Picasso Three Musicians.Don't remember the name of this painting but I love the colors.Appreciating art.
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Bright Lights Big City

Sometimes it takes an outsider to really experience the intrigue of your hometown. My friend from Argentina could not believe that after 25 years of living just 30 minutes away from one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world, I hadn't gone to a few of the most popular tourist sites. I had never gone to the Statue of Liberty, never gone up to the observation deck in the Empire State Building, and never sailed to Ellis Island. I thought Times Square was a tourist trap, and frankly I dreaded pushing past tourists as they gazed up, stupefied at all the bright lights.

In my defense, I know many others from the area who hadn't seen these attractions either, after all we figure that they will always be here. We don't need to do the silly things tourists do in order to really know our city. Perhaps this may be true, however those silly tourist things also make up New York City, and they make New York rather incredible.
Since I've known it, Times Square has always been somewhat of an adult amusement park. I didn't know the gritty Times Square with its peeps shows and sex shops. To me it has always been one big TV commercial, with lights and advertisements, a true emblem of American capitalism.
Now Times Square has evolved once again. Suddenly it is a place where people are encouraged to sit down and relax, rather than the old place where you hurriedly push everyone out of your way. There are seats you can sit on in the middle of it all. The bleachers also encourage further loitering on the small cement island smack dab in the middle of Time Square.
This is different than the Times Square I used to know, although it was nice to sit on the bleachers and take a look around. I mean it's hard not to. There are just so many different things going on over there. Strangely enough, after a few more minutes of gazing out into the advertising horizon, I felt the need to spend my money on useless products and Broadway shows. Needless to say that was enough Times Square for one day.
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